2004 Champagne Brut Cristal Rosé

You might be able to make a wine like this if you had the foresight to buy vineyard land at the center of the slope in Aÿ, when the prices were still depressed by World Wars, and if you believed in sustaining old pinot noir vines and macerating their juice to create the color and flavor detail of a classic saignée Champagne. But even if you were a trained enologist and, like Jean-Claude Rouzaud, had inherited the Roederer estate, you still might need someone with the technical skills of Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon to attain the delicacy and fierce precision of this wine. Such efforts would be a fool’s errand, perhaps, when the formula for Cristal Rosé already exists, a mood-altering alchemy of power and finesse, fragrant red fruit, limestone gruffness and polish. This is a glorious 2004 with the drive of a great Cristal.

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Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA

Reviewed by Joshua Greene | Dec 2012

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