98

Krug

$250

1998 Champagne Brut

If you are a Krug classicist, this is your wine. There’s nothing like it, other than prior great vintages of Krug (and perhaps the 2002, when that breaks away from the cellar). My notes on this wine are extensive, but the one word underlined is Kruggy: It has the power and stodgy brilliance of Krug. The depth of the wine is hard to describe, with ethereal quince and sweet spice providing sunniness to counter the gravitas of the structure. It brought to mind the crostini topped with uni and lardo at Marea in NYC—a dish that would bring out the layers of lime, lemon zest and shellfish broth in this wine. It would also match well with rich Lyonnaise cuisine, a foie gras terrine, duck confit…whether you open it now or in 20 years.

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Moët Hennessey USA, NY

Reviewed by Joshua Greene | Dec 2012

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